tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-652108045169701612024-03-14T05:57:21.543-07:00A Nerd in Nepalaka Kurt in the KhumbuKurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.comBlogger79125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-48456527365851474942012-12-19T12:49:00.000-08:002013-12-21T08:48:06.320-08:00Gigapixel Panorama<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://explore.glacierworks.org/en/#trek/everest-base-camp" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://more.glacierworks.org/wp-content/uploads/EBC_Pumori_050112_preview1.jpg" width="562" /></a></div>
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Check out this amazing gigapixel panoramic image of the Khumbu glacier captured by <a href="http://www.nerdinnepal.com/2012/04/another-brush-with-fame.html" target="_blank">David Breashears</a> during the spring of 2012, from the Pumori viewpoint near Mount Everest. Check my post below "<a href="http://www.nerdinnepal.com/2012/04/day-19-final-day-in-base-camp.html" target="_blank">Day 19 - Final Day in Base Camp</a>" for the details of my climb up to the same viewpoint.<br />
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<a href="http://explore.glacierworks.org/en/#trek/everest-base-camp">http://explore.glacierworks.org/en/#trek/everest-base-camp</a><br />
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If you click on the image you can enter gigapixel navigation and pan and zoom. You can even zoom in on my actual tent at the top part of Mt. Everest basecamp. Super cool!!<br />
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Here's the zoom in on my tent (see if you can find it):<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbjpWy4BmzphYjYc8k_UD0pA0jVTclWKMLP2VrHhY_5ytMucA-ws_ansATLgyoCIMpewZQrDiWlxjuGCeZaARVB4eZNgdB1VvH7G7InHpteG7c36o_LSUja0S04Oa0Fem406QkJS1vg/s1600/My+Tent+at+EBC.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbjpWy4BmzphYjYc8k_UD0pA0jVTclWKMLP2VrHhY_5ytMucA-ws_ansATLgyoCIMpewZQrDiWlxjuGCeZaARVB4eZNgdB1VvH7G7InHpteG7c36o_LSUja0S04Oa0Fem406QkJS1vg/s1600/My+Tent+at+EBC.PNG" /></a></div>
<br /></div>Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-46936899259401090142012-09-14T17:10:00.000-07:002012-11-25T10:36:00.157-08:00"Take a Number"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Outside Magainze's Grayson Schaffer spent the spring climbing season at Mt. Everest Base Camp and published this gripping story of the 2012 season primarily about the team I was there, in part, supporting. Read it! <a href="http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountaineering/everest-2012/Take-a-Number.html">http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountaineering/everest-2012/Take-a-Number.html</a><br />
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Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-89874575245438457602012-05-12T11:10:00.001-07:002012-05-12T11:10:13.928-07:00It wasn't me!<a href="http://blogs.seattletimes.com/today/2012/05/4-yak-skulls-from-tibet-seized-at-sea-tac-airport/#.T66ncq9O8GI.blogger">4 yak skulls from Tibet seized at Sea-Tac Airport</a>: News, weather, traffic, events and photos from the City Desk at The Seattle Times.Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-50604683230095313032012-05-01T15:23:00.001-07:002012-05-01T15:23:11.683-07:00Sunrise on EBC<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/fvdj1D_RW1g?fs=1" width="480"></iframe>Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-24771203290781982062012-05-01T15:22:00.003-07:002012-05-01T15:22:52.821-07:00Klouds of the Khumbu<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/CZucJme6WNU?fs=1" width="480"></iframe>Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-4556900368654270262012-05-01T15:22:00.001-07:002012-05-01T15:22:25.516-07:00Khumbu Ice Training Timelapse<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/jvUXxmr9O2M?fs=1" width="480"></iframe>Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-22991019184421335822012-04-30T20:45:00.002-07:002012-04-30T20:45:44.275-07:00And that is that...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Back to work in the morning. How quickly time passes. Nepal, I shall return. FYI: here's where I'm in the process of uploading the raw set of photos: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/kurthu/sets/72157629304666766/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/kurthu/sets/72157629304666766/</a><br />
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When we were receiving our blessings from Lama Geshe at the Pangpoche Monastery, he presented each of us with the following printed prayer:</div>
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<b><i>A request to all sentient beings on this planet...</i></b><br />
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<b>Give up all intentions to harm others from your heart</b><br />
<b>And do you best to benefit them all.</b><br />
<b>If each and everyone fells the universal responsibility to do so,</b><br />
<b>We will all enjoy the feast of peace!</b><br />
<i>This wishing prayer was written by Lama Geshe from Pangpoche,<br />
</i><i>located in the foothills of mighty mountain Jomo Langma (Mt. Everest)</i></blockquote>
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Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-24872250604721854592012-04-28T02:00:00.001-07:002012-05-12T14:48:49.827-07:00My day at Incheon<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Not unless you have to, you are generally not going to spend a whole day at an airport, but that's pretty much what I did today in Korea.
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I set no alarm and slept in until 9:30am in my cracker box overnight hotel (the Hyatt was either full or too expensive). The shuttle brought me back over to the airport just before noon, well in advance of my 6pm departure.
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Two meals, a snack, a few lattes and miles of walking later, I think I've seen and done all that the airport Skytrax (who ever they are) seems to have awarded "World's best airport 2012", has to offer.
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Boarding now and home in 11 hours!!</div>Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-80438769641920874092012-04-27T16:53:00.001-07:002012-04-27T16:53:29.569-07:00@outsidemagazine, 4/28/12 4:00 AM<div></div> <div> <table> <tbody> <tr> <td><img src="http://a0.twimg.com/profile_images/2077443348/maytwittercover_normal.jpg" style="float:left;width:48px;height:48px;margin:8px;margin-bottom:3px;"><b>Outside Magazine (<a href="https://twitter.com/outsidemagazine">@outsidemagazine</a>)</b><br> <a href="https://twitter.com/outsidemagazine/status/195950495758684160">4/28/12 4:00 AM</a><br> Major avalanche <a href="http://search.twitter.com/search?q=#OnEverest">#OnEverest</a> forces helicopter evacuation. Report from <a href="https://twitter.com/@GraysonSchaffer">@GraysonSchaffer</a>: <a href="http://t.co/ayomUL9O"> <span>bit.ly/IxTCUF</span></a></td> </tr> </tbody> </table> </div> <div><br> Alpine Ascents team was in base camp resting between their rotations. The Patagonia Brothers camp is right next door to AAI. </div> Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-51933602979231359662012-04-26T23:38:00.000-07:002012-12-19T13:14:12.425-08:00Final 33 hours in Nepal<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Yesterday morning I was up at 5:15am and down to the dinning room at the Namaste Lodge in Lukla ready to try again at the airport at 6am. Not enough time for breakfast, I waited a few minutes before Komi let me know it was time to head over. Once again Tsering helped me carry my trekking bag back to the airport.
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Komi had Tsering and me on standby for the first flight out. A lot of standing around and the next thing you know in comes the plane and we are on the tarmac. This time the plane lands and with the fastest turn over you have seen, we are sardeens once again in the flying tin can.
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There was a bit more of a view them when we left KTM nearly a month ago. I definitely got a better sense of the immense size of the Kathmandu valley.
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Arriving, we are greeted by the ever-jovial Jiban. Jiban is THE MAN! Check out this Outside Magazine profile on him: <a href="http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountaineering/The-Fixers-Fixer.html">http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountaineering/The-Fixers-Fixer.html</a> Jiban is the coolest and most connected guy in Nepal. It was great to be able to spend so much time with him yesterday and today at the Yak and Yeti. Many good stories and laughs.
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Once back at the Yak, I found myself with a whole day to kill by myself. 10:30am too early to start drinking beer? Not by my Nepali watch, it isn't. By 12:30 with three or so 18oz'ers of cold Kathmandu brew down the hatch, an afternoon nap was looking pretty good.
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But just then Jiban reappears with a one, Mr. Steve Richards in tow!! I'm totally blown away. Steve hopped a helicopter at Everest base camp in the morning about the time I was leaving Lukla, and then was able to catch a flight directly following from Lukla to Kathmandu. Physically much more efficient than my 3 day, 35 mile, 9,000 ft. elevation drop trek down. Hats off, the man's got style!
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Leslie can spot movie, TV, and sports stars. Me? I can spot Mountaineering stars. A couple tables over at lunch I see David Breashears. If you have seen the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Everest_(film)" target="_blank">IMAX Everest film</a>, you have seen his work. Perhaps the world's finest high altitude mountaineering film maker and photographer, Mr. Breashears is a legend. I chatted with him for a few minutes and told him that both Steve and I had enjoyed his photo exposition that was set up in a large tent at base camp, "Rivers of Ice." (<a href="http://www.glacierworks.org/">http://www.glacierworks.org/</a>). Very nice guy, he was headed back up to BC.
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For dinner, Steve and I capped off the trip the same way it started with pizza and beer at local favorite, Fire and Ice Pizzeria. This morning after dropping me at the airport, Steve emailed to report he had found Shangri-la in Kathmandu and it's called the Hyatt Regency. I think he called the Yak and Yeti a Motel 6 and the Hyatt a Four Seasons. That should make his two extra days that much bearable. The man needs to be pampered. :-). But after climbing to Camp II on the world's highest mountain, I would say he has more than earned it. You have my unending respect, my friend!!
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Only two more hours to kill before my hop to Korea.</div>
Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-41311166133524734862012-04-26T02:27:00.001-07:002012-04-26T03:24:25.256-07:00Another Brush with Fame<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtcaM7ZN_SZrohnWY9Tw428uIkAUbKjSpYlhq_mvh7Rg-I3oLGNXCrX3lX1iFwkb-HB28Vw0L_p51ZhvK6Cw8WrB7umtsS6231WC8lCbe69_ajsKpZ6JoJsQD_b2Vy9atGbse3z1ohMQ/s1600/photo-749108.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtcaM7ZN_SZrohnWY9Tw428uIkAUbKjSpYlhq_mvh7Rg-I3oLGNXCrX3lX1iFwkb-HB28Vw0L_p51ZhvK6Cw8WrB7umtsS6231WC8lCbe69_ajsKpZ6JoJsQD_b2Vy9atGbse3z1ohMQ/s320/photo-749108.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5735638694619259474" /></a></p>Me with mountaineering legendary photographer and film maker, David Breashears (<a href="http://davidbreashears.com/index.html" >http://davidbreashears.com/q.html</a>) at the Yak and Yeti.Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-82763639803029758682012-04-26T00:12:00.001-07:002012-04-26T03:27:42.198-07:00Wow!! Absolutely Fantastic!!Steve just showed up at the Yak and Yeti! Helicopter from BC to Lukla and then flight to KTM. Wow!! Blows my mind that he was at base camp this AM! Great to see him; dinner in Kathmandu tonight!!<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsLzbWPH-L0GDQLVAQKoaCvDNIsSk0NzqsPqFO_r8zb3T5hrMLWFsa5vHccIuIKB9zo6iRcQ3L87CyC4Zj3-Kp2kKm6xf19AWQlLqNTrMa92K7srE0qMx7J3VrD0ti3NnA0q9EWLlDLw/s640/blogger-image--341793989.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsLzbWPH-L0GDQLVAQKoaCvDNIsSk0NzqsPqFO_r8zb3T5hrMLWFsa5vHccIuIKB9zo6iRcQ3L87CyC4Zj3-Kp2kKm6xf19AWQlLqNTrMa92K7srE0qMx7J3VrD0ti3NnA0q9EWLlDLw/s640/blogger-image--341793989.jpg" /></a></div>Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-47962989451980625802012-04-25T22:06:00.001-07:002012-04-30T18:55:22.853-07:00As my father would say...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It's five o'clock somewhere.</div>Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-49669377954044142432012-04-25T03:03:00.001-07:002012-04-25T22:08:37.911-07:00Sad and TragicLast Saturday morning, while I was getting ready for my hike from EBC to Pumori base camp, Joe, Jenny and I were sitting in the dinning tent when Garrett's voice came on the radio reporting that a Sherpa from another team had taken a fall into a crevasse.<p>The incident shocked and saddened me such that I didn't feel comfortable publishing on this blog. Here is Outside Magazine's coverage: <a href="http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountaineering/everest-2012/Second-Death-on-Everest-Raises-Safety-Concerns.html">http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountaineering/everest-2012/Second-Death-on-Everest-Raises-Safety-Concerns.html</a><p>This happened above the Ice Fall before Camp I on a double ladder crevasse crossing that our climbing team had completed shortly before this awful, preventable accident.<p>It was sickening to listen to all radio traffic as various teams joined in a highly impressive professional effort to what quickly became a body recovery after Alpine Ascent's Sidar, Lapka Rita Sherpa, who had repelled into the hole, reported no signs of life.<p>Sunday morning as I departed base camp headed down, I watched the body recovery helicopter fly up above the Ice Fall and quickly back down. Sad and tragic.Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-55731218155980849262012-04-25T02:06:00.001-07:002012-04-25T02:06:27.455-07:00A Familiar Picture<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqO2upbrv8lDIdk6zGBr_o34FEiL5wQVaFyHaQ8cc8hFLR4XDzzfPTZNxFx-CShewbjFcuhcztVfhqMXWHV8UhveRtE5492rFX8olTx3ce4JNzybYatY-5DrCtVsIfqpATpQ-Nq1Tjkw/s1600/image-787456.jpeg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqO2upbrv8lDIdk6zGBr_o34FEiL5wQVaFyHaQ8cc8hFLR4XDzzfPTZNxFx-CShewbjFcuhcztVfhqMXWHV8UhveRtE5492rFX8olTx3ce4JNzybYatY-5DrCtVsIfqpATpQ-Nq1Tjkw/s320/image-787456.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5735262193322378994" /></a></p>Same picture, different day, different pub. Life in Lukla.Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-15509989120193468342012-04-25T01:21:00.001-07:002012-11-11T17:29:07.737-08:00Day 23 - Bonus Day in Lukla!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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On instructions, from Komi - the Lukla Namaste Lodge owner - for a 9am checkin at the next door airport, I came down from my room for a 7:30am breakfast. The place was PACKED with a huge crew of trekkers that had just flown in. I was seriously concerned that my trekking duffle was going to get mix up with all theirs and make it's way back up to Everest base camp, so I stood guard over it while I waited for the masses to hit the trail and clear the smallish dinning room.<br />
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After my eggs and toast, I headed to the airport with my new friend, <a href="http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountaineering/everest-2012/Dropping-the-Ax.html" target="_blank">Tsering</a>. Yesterday, we met at the Namaste. He works for Jiban - the Kathmandu-based outfitter that everyone seems to use - including Alpine Ascents. Tsering is 22 and is studying in Kathmandu. He is from the Lukla area. He told me that he has made countless flights back and forth from Lukla to Kathmandu. He was nice enough to help me carry my heavy and awkward trekking duffle the 500m to the airport. And his English be really good.<br />
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The airport was a buzz with activity. About five flights landed and loaded up with outgoing passengers between 8:15 and around 9:30am and then things mellowed. There are like three different airlines that are flying - mine has planes that are painted green. Leaving Lukla is a bit of organized chaos. Only a few of Nepali seem to know what's going on. Komi is there running around and getting everyone through the process of paying the airport tax, checking the bags, getting the tickets, etc., etc. It's best to just go with the flow and everything naturally comes together.<br />
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Finally we hear a plane approaching so we jump up in the chilly, shaded "departure lounge" hoping to get out into the sun on the tarmac and be ready to board. The plane touches down, and it's a green one!! Okay, here we go. At the door to the tarmac, the guard says "...flight three..." My boarding pass is stamped "2". Crap! More waiting, but just then we hear another plane approaching. Well, all right. Yeah, but it's a blue plane and then comes another blue plane.<br />
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By now, the place is pretty cleared out and everyone left is waiting for the same green #2. After a bit, they finally let us out onto the tarmac and take our boarding passes. Clearly the plane is about to land. As we stand out in the warm sunshine, we see our plane coming in. Suddenly just as it seems to just about to land, it flairs off to the left and aborts the landing (I wish I would have gotten a picture). This is not good. At first, I think that it is going to fly back a bit and try again. But it's starting to become clear - with the help of Tsering's translations - that the plane is, in fact, not going to land and is headed back to Kathmandu. This is shortly followed by the reason for the aborted landing: wind. And to top it all, that's it for the day --- no more flights! Like I said, "It's best to just go with the flow and everything naturally comes together."<br />
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So bonus day in Lukla and I have a newfound appreciation for including contingency days. I actually kinda like this better, the air is WAY better here at 9,800 ft. in the Khumbu than in super smoggy Kathmandu. Now I'm scheduled to be on the earliest flight tomorrow (the best time to fly). Of course if that doesn't go off then I'll start to worry about my Friday 1pm flight home. But you can't control the weather, so best to just go with the...<br />
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I just finished a lunch of chicken pizza and vegetable/egg spring rolls after hanging out at the "Starbucks" having a "latte". Free Wi-Fi, however. :-) Ten minutes more to kill before The Wave bar starts happy hour!<br />
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If anything exciting happens this afternoon (could be beer involved), I'll report in. Namaste. </div>
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Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-36188119746301227082012-04-24T07:05:00.001-07:002012-04-25T02:02:24.502-07:00Day 22 - Namche to Lukla<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ihnPO6nrw1LYGZP-Zc5_HnBgw-JmlznwSP_yj9yeHEsyM2wK1kSfbvVbFsKHzabQ7USx8cm8x7JUfhWiauSAHIzg1Ax0szvFWOFA8HvOOfIuMVoneCLeaoszYfExQXkXHts_0ZryEQ/s1600/image-722737.jpeg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ihnPO6nrw1LYGZP-Zc5_HnBgw-JmlznwSP_yj9yeHEsyM2wK1kSfbvVbFsKHzabQ7USx8cm8x7JUfhWiauSAHIzg1Ax0szvFWOFA8HvOOfIuMVoneCLeaoszYfExQXkXHts_0ZryEQ/s320/image-722737.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5734968140492795714" /></a></p>The boots are off, the backpack is unshouldered, and a cold beer is in hand. The trek is complete!!<br />
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The three day walk out from EBC (17,500 ft.) to Lukla (9,800 ft.) and 35 miles is done. Today was 7.25 hours including a laid back hour and a half at Phakding over lunch and sunning. And who doesn't enjoy Phakding? (or have I overplayed that pun?)<br />
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It was a quick trip down the hill from Namche at 8am and then on a casual decline to river valley. Tracking the river the day's trek reached a low point of 8,700 ft. before steadily climbing back up to Lukla at 9,800 ft.<br />
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I prepared for the day by making best use of the deluxe accommodations at Namche with the included bathroom to shower, shave, and change into the clean underwear that I have been saving since they were washed at base camp for this very day.<br />
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From about Monjo where I checked out of the National Park to Phukding where I had lunch, I played trail leap frog with a lone, saddleless horse who was headed in the same direction as me. He would pass me and then I would pass him. I finally made my way around him which was good because I was getting sick of smelling horse ass. I didn't hear any similar complaints from the horse when I was leading. I attribute that to the shower and the clean undies.<br />
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Regarding yesterday's comment: today was, in fact, easier. With today's again great weather, the time on the trail just flew by. Arriving at 3:15pm, I checked into the Namaste lodge, confirmed my 9am flight to Karhmandu, and enjoyed a litter of cold water.<br />
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A good priming of the pump. I headed down the "Irish Pub" for happy hour. I was hoping to catch some highlights of the Man U match but all they showed was Man City! I hung out with two Australian dudes that had just come off Mera Peak, the most popular "trekking peak" in the region, ahead of Island Peak. Pretty funny guys that were quite interested in the latest in west coast music and sports. We exchanged band names and I promised to check out "My Morning Jacket" while I persuaded the bartender to jack-in my iPhone and blast "Dog Scratched Ear" by "Henry's Funeral Shoe". I do believe the Aussies liked it. They certainly enjoyed my story of the Fiat 500 Arbath TV commercial featuring the song and Charlie Sheen. Of course we were well into happy hour at that point after a month's hiatus from al-kee-haul. Good times.<br />
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I found my way back to the Namaste Lodge for a late dinner of momos and chicken curry with rice. Ready for bed now with breakfast and flight to KTM awaiting in the AM.Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-1330081195898336462012-04-23T07:39:00.001-07:002012-04-23T07:39:51.886-07:00Day 21 - Pheriche to Namche Bazar<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnzB-SuBG2fJbrcysl1TfYk2oOEbu-bde8heb4o0F386HlPpbl5hBgqhFvZ-iAnLuQ3ksQ4slqtUoOhXxJssadO62YE6KgOB0N3ErN9vqg97LvWBEb2NkeiqcRb5SgG8kcNOncV4Wdww/s1600/image-791887.jpeg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnzB-SuBG2fJbrcysl1TfYk2oOEbu-bde8heb4o0F386HlPpbl5hBgqhFvZ-iAnLuQ3ksQ4slqtUoOhXxJssadO62YE6KgOB0N3ErN9vqg97LvWBEb2NkeiqcRb5SgG8kcNOncV4Wdww/s320/image-791887.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5734605940807038370" /></a></p>It was nice to have breakfast with Ben this morning before we both started off in opposite directions - Ben to EBC to hopefully put together a climb of Lhotse - and me down to to Namche Bazar to complete the second of my three day trek out to Lukla.
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<br>Once again it was a perfect day for trekking. In fact, other than the trail dust, I was thankful for the occasional wind to help keep things cool. It was warm!! In theory, today might have been the hardest of the three days - but I will hold out final judgement until tomorrow night.
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<br>The trail climbed up and down to reach high about the right side of the Imja Khola river, eventually crossing via a steel bridge strung directly above the old wood the rope bridge. After this bridge, the trail climbs back up to the Tengboche Gompa at 12,664 ft. I couldn't resist taking a break for some apple pie before continuing on to Phunki Tenga for lunch. The coolest suspension bridge goes right into the the restaurant. As I enjoyed my lunch of vegetable fried noodles and watched the trekkers and porters come and go over the bridge, I checked my email. I had the phone online and a new email popped in while I was sitting there. It was from Nicki, who trekked to base camp wtih her brother and father who are climbing the mountain. It was about her pictures that she had put online. I thought it was funny that I replied immediately with where I was and what I was doing. I knew she knew the place.
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<br>After Phunki Tenga, the trail once again climbs up. WTF! I thought I was going down? Up, up, up another 800 ft. vertical before leveling off and traversing along the side of the hill. With the mountain on my right side and the steep drop to the valley below on my left, I reached many places where the trail curved to the right tracking the terrain before swinging back to the left out to a point. Every time I saw one of these points, I imagined that it was the final one and when I reached and curved around it, Namche Bazar would lie in front of me. This happened about six times and each time my swearing grew stronger and more intense (I was getting a bit tied and my feet had seen enough trail).
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<br>Finally I reached Namche and the Panorama Lodge at 3:30pm. I gave Joe a call up at base camp to check in and he gave my ego a boost by letting me know that was a pretty good time. Perhaps 5th place in my age group. I even beat my porter who showed up 1.5 hours later.
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<br>I couldn't resist heading downtown - and when I say downtown in Namche, it is quite literarily DOWN to the town - for some more of that best apple pie in the Khumbu.
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<br>Back to the Panorama for dinner of chicken fried rice and they surprised me with desert - you guessed it - apple pie. Three times in one day. Not even close to touching today's caloric burn.
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<br>Hard to believe, after all these weeks, that tomorrow is my final day hiking. I must say that the Khumbu is the best hiking I have ever experienced and likely ever will. It is absolutely an amazing and awe-inspiring place. Everyone should do this once in their lives (if you are into that kinda thing).Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-39118056626056449882012-04-23T06:26:00.001-07:002012-04-23T06:26:20.226-07:00Outdoor Magazine: Everest BC Confidential<a href="http://www.outsideonline.com/adventure-travel/asia/nepal/Base-Camp-CONFIDENTIAL.html">http://www.outsideonline.com/adventure-travel/asia/nepal/Base-Camp-CONFIDENTIAL.html</a>Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-43629834651036371432012-04-22T06:48:00.001-07:002012-04-22T06:48:40.134-07:00Day 20 - EBC to Pheriche<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhop7oMVJ9WAckGJHga12pVaiBGWWJROTd-TFym7Bos6MfHdGpPOmitDpfy1U2JgQhynJaKFlg58nGpmppuWOvqZ-kdWxIfbNk7TUKW5BQhpyHvevFlAiUMdP7pZ5IPGqIGd-bX_x4E5g/s1600/image-720135.jpeg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhop7oMVJ9WAckGJHga12pVaiBGWWJROTd-TFym7Bos6MfHdGpPOmitDpfy1U2JgQhynJaKFlg58nGpmppuWOvqZ-kdWxIfbNk7TUKW5BQhpyHvevFlAiUMdP7pZ5IPGqIGd-bX_x4E5g/s320/image-720135.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5734221662917738386" /></a></p>This morning I began the first step in making my way home. Eight hours of walking door to door from AAI Everest Base Camp to the Himalayan Hotel in Pheriche. Admittedly I did spend nearly an hour and half in Gorak Shep eating lunch and basking in the warmth of a real 3G+ mobile broadband connection. Ah the joy of uploading photos and checking my Facebook activity feed. Lunch never tasted so good. I forgot what I ate.
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<br>Actually that break provided the energy I was missing for the long day. With the climbers up on the mountain, the base camp staff took a much needed and extremely well deserved break. The bloom was off the rose and that meant that I had a light camper's breakfast: oatmeal. I should have eaten more because my butt was dragging from EBC to Gorak Shep. I left EBC at 8:40am and arrived in Gorak Shep at 11am. After lots of food and a good rest, I kicked it into gear, left Gorak Shep at 12:30pm and made it to Lobuche at 2pm. I hung out in the same lodge that we had spent two nights in on the way up, drinking some black tea, downing a litter of water and a Clif Shot; pressing on at 2:30pm.
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<br>The guy at Lobuche estimated it was about a 3.5 hour walk down to Pheriche. Doing the math I was a tiny bit concerned about daylight. I rocked it non-stop down to Pheriche with plenty of sunshine to spare. In fact it was a perfect day for trekking - the typical afternoon clouds with snow never came. When I arrived I checked my watch and was surprised to see it was only 4:30pm. Boo-yah!
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<br>Going from 17,500 ft. down to 14,200 ft. in one day certain provides a ton of extra oxygen to breath. It feels good. I'm just typing this in at the lodge over tea and popcorn waiting for dinner at 6pm. AND in walks AAI guide Ben Jones. Ben is on his way back up to base camp after successfully guiding two clients up Island Peak and walking them down to Lukla. Pretty cool that we are able to have dinner together and hang out.
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<br>Tomorrow Ben will walk all the way up to EBC while I will head down to Namche. To get to Namche I will have to climb up to the Tengboche Monastery and then back down to the river at Phunki Tenga before climbing back up again to Namche. Should be a 6-8 hour day. I'm hoping to get into Namche in the mid-afternoon to check out the shops again.
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<br>One step closer to home!Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-53050800340957869782012-04-21T23:26:00.001-07:002012-12-19T13:06:49.855-08:00Day 19 - Final Day in Base Camp<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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For you foodspotters out there let's get this out of the way first - Breakfast: French Toast, French-press coffee; Lunch: Massive grilled cheese sandwich with sliced tomatoes and onions (it was like it was made on two slices of French toast - I couldn't finish it), one fried egg, and fried potatoes slices; Dinner - personal pepperoni pizza. Living? Yes, quite nicely, thank you.<br />
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I was up at 2:30am to see the climbers off on their first rotation. After they had started up the Ice Fall, I took this wicked long exposure of the headlamp trail up the Ice Fall and the star filled sky over the Western Cwm. I also set up, what I think will turn out to be an awesome timelapse video of the sunrise over Everest Base Camp and then crawled back into my tent and sleeping bag.<br />
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Up at 8:30am I hung out with Joe and Jenny for a while before heading out for a solo day hike to Pumori base camp (18,000 ft.) - hoping for some great views of Mt. Everest. By the time that I had hiked down to the bottom of EBC (about 45 mins - EBC is huge and well spread out) and found the trailhead for Pumori BC, I could see that those views were once again going to be denied. There were some menacing looking clouds gathering in the lower valley. I knew for sure that snow was coming, so I set turn around time at 1pm or when the snow started to fly - which ever came first. As it turned out, three things happened simultaneously: the clock stuck 1pm, the snow started to come down, and I reached by alitutude goal of 18,000 ft. - a high point for the trip and the location of Pumori base camp. The only thing missing was a view!<br />
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When I reached the main trail back to EBC, the snow was really coming down. On my way back to AAI BC (which is nicely located at the very top of EBC), I stopped in on the "Rivers of Ice - Vanishing Glaciers of the Greater Himalaya" an Everest Base Camp Photo Exhibit. Set up in a large tent sponsored by Mountain Hardware was a set of before and after panorama shots of receding glaciers. Cool photos.<br />
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Back in base camp, Joe, Jenny, and a number of the Sherpa and I watched a couple of episodes of "Flight of the Concords" and "Arrested Development" on the laptop. Joe briefed me on the logistics of trekking out and I headed to my final night in a tent.</div>
Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-2650168344406921072012-04-21T22:45:00.001-07:002012-04-30T18:56:51.648-07:00Climbing team ready for hike<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Here's a shot of the climbing team heading into the Ice Fall for practice on Friday.</div>Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-92011586257410304172012-04-20T15:13:00.001-07:002012-04-20T15:13:40.703-07:00Day 18 - Saying Farewell to the ClimbersToday right after our breakfast of the crowd favorite of scrambled eggs, bacon, pancakes and fresh baked bread, the climbing team geared up and headed into the Khumbu Ice Fall all the way up to the first crevasse crossing via ladder - about a quarter of the way up the Ice Fall. I certainly would have enjoyed going with them, but my climbing gear is somewhere in the Khumbu other than EBC. If it doesn't show up here tomorrow, I'm hoping to catch up with it in Pheriche, my goal for Sunday's first day of trekking out. No worries.<p>I spent the morning doing a transfer of knowledge regarding the power and solar charging system to Joe, the base camp manager. This is Joe's baby. There was a lot of talk of Watts, amps, voltage, wire gages, battery dissipation rates, loads, charge controllers, etc. I knew that that second quarter of Physics was going to come in handy some day. Maybe going to class drunk wasn't as good of an idea as it seemed at the time.<p>I also set up the GoPro camera to record a few time lapse sequences that I edited in the afternoon on the team's laptop. One of them came out nice. I entitled that piece, "Klouds in the Khumbu" - by Sir Edmund Kurt Hunter. I'm going to enter it into the short, short, short film festival. Running time: 36 seconds. Massive potential to go viral on YouTube. File under "New GoPro owners." I'm certain that no one has made a time lapse video of clouds moving yet. I'm a trendsetter.<p>The climbing team organized their equipment and loads for their first rotation and the next thing you know we were having dinner. A spicy beef and vegetable stew with rice and fresh baked rolls. Come to Everest Base Camp for the views, stay for the food!<p>After dinner all of climbers wanted to go straight to bed because they will be getting up for breakfast at 2am in order to headed up on their first rotation by 3am. They will climb tomorrow about 8 hours to Camp I, spend two nights, move further up to Camp II, and spend another two nights before descending back to Base Camp on Wednesday, April 25. By that time I should have trekked the 35 miles down to Lukla and have flown back to Kathmandu on that same Wednesday.<p>As they headed to bed, I said my safety farewells and goodbyes to all of them in the unlikely (ha!) case I don't get up with them at 2am. I think I should be able to considering I didn't seem to have much trouble last night making another last ditch attempt to post my dispatch when I woke at about that same time. I also gave a call to Stuart and Scott in Edinburgh to hear about Stuart's travel experiences and make sure he arrived safe.<p>Tomorrow after the climbers go and all the communications business is taken care of, Joe and Jenny and I are planning to hike up to the Pumori advance base camp (18,700 ft.) for a view of Everest Base Camp, the Khumbu Ice Fall and Mount Everest, itself, that is said to rival Kala Patthar. And then Sunday I start my solo trek out early in the morning.<p>Hard to believe it's starting to come to an end! In less than a week I will be on a plane back to the States. And then it will just my memories and the about 50 billion photos that I've taken.Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65210804516970161.post-88486860132058415642012-04-19T14:26:00.001-07:002012-04-19T14:26:42.041-07:00Days 16 & 17 - The Everest Dream ContinuesI got a call from my publisher and he yelled at me about all the angry emails he received over the fact that I made no dispatch yesterday. Well truth be told, I did nothing yesterday and that included not sending a dispatch. It was the very definition of a "rest" day. The highlight of the day was that I took a shower. Sure, it was glorious, but there are some things I like to keep private, like my bathroom time. Please no questions.<p>Also yesterday - our expedition leader, Garret, and our Sidar, Lapka Rita Sherpa attended the annual meeting of the Everest expedition teams down at the Russell Brice's HiEx camp. This is where all the white leaders discuss plans for fixing the rope on the routes, establish timelines, roles, and responsibilities. And then the next day the Sherpa Sidars get together and set the actual plans. :-)<p>After dinner, we watched 5 of 7 Years in Tibet.<p>== The Next Day (today) ==<p>After our breakfast of spectacular scrabbled eggs, bacon, and toast, the team set out to the ice for more training. Today I tagged along, even without my crampons, and spent the time watching the show and taking tens of photos and a time lapse video of the action. It was super fun and truly wished my gear was here to allow me to join in. Fixed line travel, jumaring up vertical ice with front pointing, horizontal ladder crossing, rappelling, etc. Great fun.<p>We came in for a great lunch and then the climbing team had a team meeting at 3pm to discuss the 3 hour round trip hike into the Khumbu Ice Fall tomorrow. It is possible that I might go, but likely not. My climbing gear was supposed to show up today, but I haven't seen it yet.<p>At 4pm, our base camp cook, Jenny set up scones with fresh cream and tea. Cheeri-o! Also about that time my plans for a time lapse video of the sunset, base camp lighting up, and the stars coming out were dashed by snow. It's been coming down a bit harder than we've seen.<p>Dinner in 20 minutes and then another movie. But first the last 2 Years in Tibet. I'm also going to premiere my Khumbu Ice Training short film (58 seconds).Kurt Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14094378279861894956noreply@blogger.com1